Clean a Rangemaster with hot soapy water and a cream cleaner, never caustic spray. The grey catalytic liners clean themselves above 200°C and should not be scrubbed, and on most models the inner door glass lifts out for cleaning.
Getting the inner door glass out
Rangemaster's own advice for the door is mild: equal parts water and washing-up liquid in a spray bottle, a short wait for it to sit, then a wipe, with a cream cleaner and a nylon scourer for anything browned. That deals with the inside face. The film that builds between the panes needs the inner glass out.
How it comes out depends on the model and its age. On the Classic 60 the user guide has you open the top-oven door fully, release the saddle brackets either side of the hinges, lift the door off, and then push the inner glass upwards and out of its retaining clips, while on other Classics the inner pane is held by screws instead, so the guide for your exact model is worth the two minutes it takes to find. Lay the pane on a towel, never on a bare worktop.
Two warnings straight from the manuals: nothing sharp or harshly abrasive on oven glass, because a scratch can become a shatter later, and grill parts are handled cool or with gloves. Browning that has baked between the panes for years will not spray off; polishing that film away with the door split is a fair slice of why people ring us on 020 8077 5225.
Leave the catalytic liners alone
Leave the liners alone.
The grey speckled panels lining the cavity sides on most Rangemasters are catalytic liners: a porous coating that absorbs fat and oxidises it at high temperature. Rangemaster says they clean themselves at 200°C and above during normal cooking and that manual cleaning is not recommended; at most, lift them out, wash in hot soapy water and dry fully before refitting.
Catalytic liners clean themselves above 200°C. Scrub them, or hit them with caustic spray, and you strip the coating that does the work.
A liner set that gets a hot empty hour after mucky roasts lasts years; once the panels stay brown, they are saturated, and the fix is replacement rather than elbow grease. Catalytic is the budget cousin of pyrolytic self-cleaning, and the honest comparison sits in our guide to pyrolytic ovens versus a professional clean.
Griddles and burner heads
The griddle plate is non-stick, and non-stick sets the rules: hot soapy water straight after use, before the fat cools and glues itself on, then a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water for anything cooked on, worked with a cloth or a nylon pad. Rangemaster suggests exactly that, with a drop of oil in the paste. Steel scourers end a griddle.
Burner heads and caps on the gas hob lift off. Half an hour soaking in warm soapy water loosens most of it, an old toothbrush and a cream cleanser deal with the rest, and everything goes back bone dry, because a wet burner head sputters and lights unevenly.
What the spec-sheet words mean
- Catalytic liner
- A removable grey speckled panel that absorbs fat and burns it off above 200°C. A consumable part: it saturates after some years and gets replaced, never scrubbed.
- Flexi-grill
- The 29-litre grill cavity on current Classics, with four grilling heights. The pan and trivet wash normally; the cavity cleans like a small oven.
- Tall oven
- The narrower 67-litre right-hand cavity on 90cm models. Cleans like the main oven, with more corner work per litre.
- Multifunction oven
- The main 80-litre cavity on newer models, fan and conventional modes in one. Cleaning is unchanged; keep sprays away from the fan surround.
90cm and 110cm: what changes
The width buys cavities, and cavities are what get cleaned.
| Classic 90 | Classic 110 | |
|---|---|---|
| Left cavity | 80-litre fan or multifunction oven | 80-litre multifunction oven |
| Right cavity | 67-litre tall oven | Second 80-litre oven |
| Extra cavity | None | Dedicated slow-cook or proving cavity on some layouts |
| Grill | 29-litre flexi-grill, four heights | 29-litre flexi-grill, four heights |
| Below the ovens | Plinth | Storage drawer on many models |
For cleaning, that table is a workload chart. A 110 is two full-size deep cleans plus a grill cavity; the 90 trades one of those for a tall oven whose narrow shape means more time per litre. The multi-cavity format hides neglect: the oven you rarely use quietly grows a coat while you judge the cooker by the one you see daily.
Common questions
Can you use caustic oven cleaner in a Rangemaster?
The enamel cavity tolerates it, but Rangemaster's advice leans on soapy water and cream cleaner, and caustic spray wrecks catalytic liners, dulls trim and lingers in seals. We clean ranges by hand with non-caustic products for exactly that reason.
Why is the oven still dirty after a hot catalytic run?
The liners only treat the panels they cover. The cavity floor, the roof, the glass, the racks and the grill pan get nothing from the cycle, so they still need hand cleaning.
How often does a Rangemaster need a professional clean?
Once a year suits most households, sooner for roast-heavy kitchens. The ranges we open tend to be worst in the cavity their owners stopped looking into, so rotate your checks even if you never rotate the ovens.
Our version of the job covers every cavity in one visit. A 90cm range is £114, fixed on the phone: racks, trays and the grill pan soak in the heated dip tank in the van, the cavities and glass are degreased by hand indoors with non-caustic products, the door is split where the design allows, the liners are left to do their own work, and the oven is heat-tested before we leave. The other sizes are on the price list, and the method in full is on the range oven cleaning page.